纪录片自媒体解说素材-新闻动态参考-“沃尔夫冈”评论：沃尔夫冈·帕克（Wolfgang Puck）的咸纪录片肖像，定义的名人厨师/‘Wolfgang’ Review: A Savory Documentary Portrait of Wolfgang Puck, the Defining Celebrity Chef
https://cdn.6867.top:6867/A1A/hddoc/news/2022/07/0508/0810vzy4mnylym4.jpg“沃尔夫冈”评论：沃尔夫冈·帕克（Wolfgang Puck）的咸纪录片肖像，定义的名人厨师
‘Wolfgang’ Review: A Savory Documentary Portrait of Wolfgang Puck, the Defining Celebrity Chef
“沃尔夫冈”中有一个好故事，可以捕捉厨师的流动方式。这是在Spago的熙熙bund的夜晚（80年代的Spago唯一的夜间Spago），在她的“王朝”成名的顶点的琼·柯林斯（Joan Collins）中。她总是订购沃尔夫冈·帕克（Wolfgang Puck）最受欢迎的菜肴之一：奶油蛋卷上的烟熏鲑鱼。但是所有的奶油蛋卷都消失了，帕克不想面对亚历克西斯的愤怒。所以他即兴。他在没有番茄酱的情况下煮了一个比萨饼，并在上面撒了莳萝奶油，用熏制的鲑鱼覆盖，然后用鱼子酱撒上它。瞧！ Spago Classic诞生了。这是一个让您饥饿的轶事，在迪斯尼和纪录片《沃尔夫冈》中经常发生，讲述了沃尔夫冈·帕克（Wolfgang Puck）的故事，并在78分钟的清晰光明中做到了公正。碰巧的是，冰球传奇中的披萨因子隐约可见。首先，他制作了崇高的比萨饼：嚼劲的砖烤面包皮，奶酪的美味，比您曾经在PIZ上看到的艺术品的浇头ZA（鸭香！），但以某种方式使您走了，“以前没人能把它放在披萨上？”但是，披萨因素的另一个元素是，即使帕克（Puck）带来了他称之为加利福尼亚美食的革命对洛杉矶和事实证明，对洛杉矶的其他地区 - 一种风味的革命，在农场中以其自然的本质，法国烹饪技术的融合和一种混乱的美国叮咬融合而生产咸味 - 餐厅这一事实用披萨做了一个神圣的臀部菜，成为了某种东西的广告：沃尔夫冈·帕克（Wolfgang Puck）永远不会忘记他的娱乐中心（或我们的娱乐中心）。他使美味的食物变得有趣，不仅是美味，优雅和健康，而且以吸引孩子的方式的方式弹出。人们之所以去Spago，是因为他们想被人看，也是因为那是一个夜间的烹饪派对。是帕克（PuckS并洒到腹地。这位前Spago Cook Evan Funke在电影中说：“他是我们在这个国家用餐的创始父亲。但是，作为戴维·盖尔布（David Gelb（“ Jiro of Sushi的Jiro Dreams”）执导的“ Wolfgang”，娱乐性地捕捉到了爆发的创新，这些创新变得比包括他在内的任何人都更具影响力。当他决定自己出发时，他和他的搭档芭芭拉·拉扎罗夫（Barbara Lazaroff）（他们结婚了19年，于1983年开始），在日落大道上购买了一家潜水餐厅，他们从头开始重建。我们在翻新之前看到了它的照片，这是一个恐怖表演，就像“餐厅：不可能”一集中的“前”场景。他们决定拥有一个开放式厨房，那时，这是一个完全开箱即用的想法。它从烟雾和不锈钢中创造了一部视觉戏剧，它让烹饪香气飘入餐厅，并将焦点恰恰相同在厨师上。“那是剧院，”拉扎罗夫说。“他是明星。”一颗被星星星系包围的星星。Spago成为一个交易的地方，成为好莱坞名人Cantina的一倍。我记得我听到了一位开始闯入电影界的朋友的敬畏之情。他根本去那里的东西不如他坐在餐厅东侧的一张好桌子上的事实并不那么令人印象深刻。他解释说，他将拒绝任何尝试将他放在其中一张桌子上的尝试，因为那将对他在行业中的影响力（或缺乏影响力）发表声明。这些不仅仅是人们吃晚餐。他们是在正确的轨迹上互相绕行的力量行星。伟大的食品作家露丝·赖希尔（Ruth Reichl）在电影中采访了，正如她指出的那样，“在70年代，成为厨师是一项蓝领工作。这是一项可怕的工作。人们知道谁拥有餐厅，他们很少知道谁做了COking。沃尔夫（Wolf）改变了这一点。”他在法国的训练中脱颖而出，他的完美主义工作，但帕克的一部分也是他的耕种礼物。他不是一个高个子或宏伟的男人，但他有一个米克·贾格尔（Mick Jaggers） - 少女 - 少女戴蒙（Matt Damon）的婴儿脸，并带有表演者的Siegfried和Roy的闪光。他很可爱，性感，而且……好吧。他以戏剧性的发音方式使用了奥地利口音，就像阿诺德那样。在餐厅，他成为了超级代理迈克尔·奥维兹（Michael Ovitz）的朋友，他谈到了他如何推出帕克（Puck）的电视事业。奥维兹（Ovitz）将ABC-TV总裁带到了Spago，Puck和魅力的载体一起为他们提供了品尝菜单。晚餐结束时，奥维兹已经达成了一笔交易，帕克（Puck）出现在“早安美国”（Good Morning America）。夸张说他带给它的精神 - 热情和机智，烹饪认真的人，任何人都随意 - 基本上启动了食品频道的概念。他是第一位名人厨师（尽管朱莉娅·克里亚（Julia Child）击败了他），也是第一个将自己提升为品牌的人。在电影中，帕克回忆起约翰尼·卡森（Johnny Carson）是如何一天晚上来到Spago的，当他准备离开时，问他是否可以有10个比萨饼去。帕克问为什么，约翰尼说他想冻结他们。那就是他们的效果。这使Puck的想法是推出自己的质量控制的冷冻披萨系列。 （一个人可以开玩笑说大众营销，但是当我在美食障碍机场间监视沃尔夫冈冰球的前哨站时，我叹了口气。）世界各地的人。他成为了一个帝国。“沃尔夫冈”以令人垂涎的欢乐而讲述了这个故事，这是不可抗拒的，这是令人信服的奇异之处。沃尔夫冈·帕克（Wolfgang Puck）成为一个巨大的成功故事，但从未计划在我身上计划t。这部电影回到了他在奥地利的根源，在那里他很小的时候就爱上了厨房，与母亲和祖母一起烹饪维也纳施尼策尔和肝脏饺子，但他被继父的虐待而困扰着他。正如他在电影中承认的那样，他一生都在试图超越这种失败的感觉。当他成为传说中的厨师，但糟糕的洛杉矶餐厅Ma Maison带有Astroturf地毯时，他笑着解释了那里的食物有多可怕，以及当他在Del Mar的Chino Ranch找到它时，他如何赎回它这与他在法国所看到的相当。我认为这部电影在从未提及的爱丽丝·沃特斯（Alice Waters）真正遗漏了，他们真正地将这场革命放在地图上，但帕克激活了新的食品福音。在71岁时，他仍然在这里，有银色的头发和永恒的嬉戏温暖，从来没有任何假装，只是对食物和生活的热爱。当他在Spago介绍Wiener Schnitzel时，它变成了巨大的H它，您觉得他的故事完整地圈出了 - 这道菜看起来如此金色脆皮，您想在那里订购它。沃尔夫冈（Wolfgang）的一个“黑暗的一面”是电影展示的是，他对工作变得如此痴迷，以至于他忽略了他的孩子。这听起来还不是丑闻，但帕克拥有什么折衷方案。他不在那儿。（这是他承受的重量。）作为一部电影，“沃尔夫冈”的简短而甜美，我敢肯定它会忽略一切。但是，有什么真实的，而且应该是咸的。
There’s a good story in "Wolfgang" that captures how a chef goes with the flow. It was a bustling night at Spago (the only kind of night Spago had in the '80s), and in walked Joan Collins, at the apex of her "Dynasty" fame. She always ordered one of Wolfgang Puck’s most popular dishes: smoked salmon on a brioche. But all the brioche was gone, and Puck didn't want to face the wrath of Alexis. So he improvised. He cooked a pizza without tomato sauce and spread dill cream on it, covering it with smoked salmon and topping it with dollops of caviar. Voilà! A Spago classic was born.
That’s an anecdote to make you hungry, which happens a lot in "Wolfgang," a Disney Plus documentary that tells Wolfgang Puck’s story, and does it justice, in a crisp light 78 minutes. As it happens, the Pizza Factor looms large in the Puck legend. For starters, he made sublime pizzas: the chewy brick-oven-baked crust, the delicacy of the cheeses, the toppings that were artier than you were used to seeing on pizza (duck sausage!) but in a way that made you go, "How could no one have put this on a pizza before?"
But the other element of the Pizza Factor is that even as Puck was bringing the revolution he called California Cuisine to Los Angeles and, as it turned out, to the rest of America — a revolution in flavor, in farm produce savory with its natural essence, in the fusion of French cooking techniques and a kind of promiscuous American bite — the fact that the restaurant made a divinely hip dish out of pizza became an advertisement for something: that Wolfgang Puck never forget his pleasure center (or ours). He made great food fun, not just tasty and classy and healthy but popping with succulence in a way that appealed to the child within. People went to Spago because they wanted to be seen, but also because it was a nightly culinary party. It was Puck who took the stuffiness out of high-end restaurant bravado, and that spirit swept through New York and other food meccas and spilled into the hinterlands. The former Spago cook Evan Funke says in the movie, "He’s the founding father of the way we eat in this country."
If Puck had done nothing but that, he’d be a giant. But as "Wolfgang," directed by David Gelb ("Jiro Dreams of Sushi"), entertainingly captures, Puck tumbled into innovations that became more influential than anyone, including him, might have expected. When he decided to set off on his own, he and his partner, Barbara Lazaroff (they were married for 19 years, starting in 1983), bought a dive restaurant along Sunset Boulevard that they rebuilt from the ground up. We see photographs of it prior to the renovation, and it’s a horror show — like the "before" scenes from an episode of "Restaurant: Impossible." They decided to have an open kitchen, which was, at that point, a totally out-of-the-box idea. It created a visual drama out of smoke and stainless steel, it let the cooking aromas waft into the dining room, and it put the spotlight right on the chef. "It was theater," says Lazaroff. "And he was the star."
A star surrounded by a galaxy of stars. Spago became a place of deal-making that doubled as the Hollywood celebrity cantina. I remember hearing about it, with a touch of awe, from a friend who was starting to break into the film industry. That he went there at all was less impressive than the fact that he’d be seated at one of the good tables, over on the east side of the restaurant. He explained that he would turn down any attempt to seat him at one of the déclassé tables, because that would have made a statement about his clout (or lack of it) in the industry. These weren’t just people eating dinner. They were planets of power orbiting one another at just the right trajectory.
The great food writer Ruth Reichl is interviewed in the film, and as she points out, "In the '70s, being a chef was a blue-collar job. It was a terrible job. People knew who owned the restaurant, they rarely knew who did the cooking. And Wolf changes that, in a really big way." He worked with a perfectionism culled from his training in France, yet part of Puck’s talent was also his gift for cultivation. He wasn’t a tall or imposing man, but he had a Mick Jagger-meets-Matt Damon baby face with a hint of the showman’s gleam of Siegfried and Roy. He was cute, sexy, and…well, puckish. He used his Austrian accent with a dramatic articulation, the way Arnold did. At the restaurant, he became friends with the super-agent Michael Ovitz, who talks about how he launched Puck’s TV career. Ovitz brought the president of ABC-TV to Spago, and Puck served them a tasting menu to die for, along with a ladle of charm. By the end of the dinner, Ovitz had gotten a deal for Puck to appear on "Good Morning America."
He took off as a television personality, becoming a fixture on the morning shows and "Late Night with David Letterman," and it’s no exaggeration to say that the spirit he brought to it — the zest and wit, the cooking seriousness, the anyone-can-do-it casualness — essentially launched the concept of the Food Channel. He was the first celebrity chef (though maybe Julia Child beat him to it), and certainly the first to elevate himself into a brand. In the movie, Puck recalls how Johnny Carson came to Spago one night and, when he was ready to leave, asked if he could have 10 pizzas to go. Puck asked why, and Johnny said that he wanted to freeze them; that’s how good they were. That gave Puck the idea to launch his own quality-controlled frozen-pizza line. (One can joke about the mass-marketing, but when I spy a Wolfgang Puck outpost in a cuisine-impaired airport, I breathe a sigh of relief.) And then, of course, there were all the restaurants: the one in Vegas, the ones around the world. He became an empire.
The film goes back to his roots in Austria, where he fell in love with the kitchen at a young age, cooking Wiener schnitzel and liver dumplings with his mother and grandmother, but he was haunted by the abusive put-downs of his stepfather. As he admits in the film, he has spent his life trying to outrun that feeling of failure. When he became the chef at the fabled but lousy L.A. restaurant Ma Maison, with its AstroTurf carpet, he explains with a laugh how terrible the food was there, and how he knew he could redeem it when he found the Chino Ranch in Del Mar, which grew produce comparable to what he’d seen in France.
I think the film commits a major omission in never mentioning Alice Waters, who truly put this revolution on the map, but it was Puck who activated the new food gospel. And at 71, he’s still at it, with silver hair and an ageless playful warmth, never any pretensions, just a love of food and of life. When he introduces Wiener schnitzel at Spago, and it becomes a huge hit, you feel his story come full circle — and the dish looks so golden crispy luscious you want to order it right there. The one "dark side" of Wolfgang Puck the movie presents is that he became so obsessed with work that he neglected his children. That sounds less than scandalous, but Puck owns what a compromise it was; he wasn’t there for his kids. (That’s a weight he bears.) As a movie, "Wolfgang" is short and sweet enough that I'm sure it leaves things out. But what’s there is real, and as savory as it should be.
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太好了，终于找到宝藏论坛了！ 感谢论坛提供了这么多好资源啊 谢谢楼主分享，发现宝藏了。 太好了，终于找到宝藏论坛了！ 感谢分享，下载收藏了。最喜欢高清纪录片了。 感谢论坛提供了这么多好资源啊 感谢大佬分享。我又来学习了~
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