我爱高清 发表于 2022-7-5 02:26:33

纪录片自媒体解说素材-新闻动态参考-“没有永远持续下去”评论:辉煌的钻石文档揭示了什么可能破坏鲍勃泡沫/‘Nothing Lasts Forever’ Review: Brilliant Diamond Doc Reveals What Could Burst the Bauble Bubble

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“没有永远持续下去”评论:辉煌的钻石文档揭示了什么可能破坏鲍勃泡沫
‘Nothing Lasts Forever’ Review: Brilliant Diamond Doc Reveals What Could Burst the Bauble Bubble

制作一颗钻石可能需要十亿年,而只有87分钟的时间才能打破许多误解的观众对他们的误解。做八分钟。这大约是珠宝设计师(和“石头”作家)Aja Raden的重点 - 杰森·科恩(Jason Kohn)野外采访的唯一一位女士,长达十年的钻探世界钻探钻石行业的秘密世界 - 提供了这一宝石:“关于钻石的真相是:它们都是完全一样的,而且它们都不值得。大多数观众可能已经对De Beers Diamond Cartel如何采用不稀疏的石头有所了解,并通过转弯市场,储存世界的大部分供应并以速度为率来控制它,从而使其具有价值。价格。 (这种现象几乎不限于宝石。)这一切都不会哑如果需求不在互动目的。在整个“一无所有”的环境中,所有人都在娱乐性地编织,尽管科恩的询问的核心涉及合成钻石的出现以及这些实验室成长的替代方案如何影响市场 - 这个市场是人为开始的市场在大规模妄想的lo子史上,在郁金香灯泡和NFT之间的某个地方。从最字面的意义上讲,我们正在谈论的是“碳副本”,现在几乎没有限制可以生产的数量。在分子级别,自然和合成石之间几乎没有有意义的差异,坚持这部电影的差异卡桑德拉(Cassandra)般的主角,可怜的塞尔维亚宝石学家Dusan Simic。他曾经专门区分两者之间,一旦De Beers释放了一台可以做同样的机器,他的服务就过时了。 Simic声称该设备实际上捕获合成材料并不是很有效。通过不识别冒名顶替者,该机器的设计是为了确保市场没有混合问题,而他估计,由于实际上是人造的,其售出的钻石占5%的订单的某个地方是人造的(这不是人造的与“假”同样的事情,请注意)。这重要吗?对行业的发展。毕竟,价格基本上是发明的,钻石的所谓价值主要存在于接收它的人的头脑中。 Kohn通过抽样VHS营销视频来打开这部电影,这是那种长相的伊丽莎白·泰勒(Elizabeth Taylor)的女性发音“ dah-monds”一词,男人被告知,有价值的订婚戒指应花费三个月的薪水。早期,钻石定价管理局马丁·拉帕波特(Martin Rapaport)重申了使这种固有愚蠢的想法运营中的行业:一名女性潜意识地投射了她所赋予的任何岩石的价值。对我的态度持怀疑态度,尽管我了解状态符号如何工作并认识到我们一直以手指上的石头大小来判断他人。后来,科恩(Kohn演出,他讲的话题总结了大型钻石电视剧:“如果我们失去订婚戒指市场,我们都会失业。”肯诺!足够恰当地,市场(而不是基本的资源)是Kohn的多方面电影,他切片的原始石头的焦点,并从许多有趣的角度检查了Rapaport,许多专家Kohn采访都认真地说服了参加。他的最大收益是德·贝尔斯(De Beers)首席执行官斯蒂芬·卢西耶(Stephen Lussier),他结婚进入了奥本海默家族,但仍然回想起他的谦卑起源,从童年的邻居特雷西·霍尔(Tracy Hall)的车道上铲雪(哈尔L是通用电气合成钻石领域的先驱。 Lussier脚趾是一个友善的同胞,派对线上恰当地称为“钻石梦”。但是,您不需要宝石学家的助推器就可以发现他的逻辑中的缺陷。除了无休止的引用雷目外,几乎所有会说话的人都是自私的 - 就像合成产生的物理学家约翰·贾尼克(John Janik扎实,调查纪录片,像一个紧张的艺术惊悚片一样拍摄和得分:科恩前往博茨瓦纳的奥拉帕(Orapa),一个巨大的露天矿山的镜头回荡着Safdie兄弟的“未切割宝石”的开始(电影的其余部分就像那部电影一样紧张而有潜在的令人震惊)。他将我们带到苏拉特(Surat)的印度“钻石城”(Diamond City)内,在那里他采访了一个“混音器”,利用了这样一个事实,即一旦石头被砍伐和抛光,它们就无法区分。他甚至跟随Simic到SE在他的研究过程中,科恩有效地破解了合成宝石的来源,因为曾经是为了工业目的而严格制造的钻石开始泄漏到珠宝商的手中,所以科恩有效地破解了合成的言语中国工厂。 (De Beers通过引入其Lightbox系列的回应 - 雷登很有趣地称为“谎言”。行业。但是他的想法永远不会起作用,因为它依赖于荣誉系统 - 与GIA认证球拍不同。最终,Simic采用了“如果您不能击败他们,加入他们的方法”,用氮键制造了自己的合成材料,它们甚至更接近天然钻石。但这是在电影中深入研究这部电影的无数经济和哲学方面,这是最有意义的。钻石代表我们什么?何我们与他们的浪漫联系起源了吗?为什么珠宝商坚持低估合成学的道德优势?订婚戒指的多付额如何影响光学,医学和电子产品中使用的钻石的价格?科恩(Kohn)创建了一部罕见的纪录片,它改变了我们对世界的理解方式,质疑我们许多核心信念,包括关于“真实”的概念。通过这一切,钻石不会失去它们的闪闪发光,但是您再也不会以同样的方式看待它们。

It takes perhaps a billion years to make a diamond, and just 87 minutes to shatter so many of the misconceptions audiences have about them in “Nothing Lasts Forever.” Make that eight minutes. That’s roughly the point at which jewelry designer (and “Stone” author) Aja Raden — the only woman interviewed in Jason Kohn’s wild, decade-long delve into the secretive world of the diamond industry — offers up this gem: “The truth about diamonds is: They’re all exactly the same, and none of them are really worth anything.”

For some, that revelation could hit with the force of being told there’s no Santa Claus, even though it’s been an open secret for ages. Most audiences probably already have some inkling of how the De Beers diamond cartel took a not-particularly-rare stone and infused it with value by cornering the market, stockpiling most of the world’s supply and controlling the release at such a rate as to set the price. (This phenomenon is hardly limited to gems.) None of this would matter if the demand weren’t there, but it is, thanks to one of the most successful marketing campaigns of all time: the infamous “A diamond is forever” tagline, whereby De Beers convinced the world that only a diamond would do for wedding engagement purposes.

All of this context is entertainingly woven throughout “Nothing Lasts Forever,” though the core of Kohn’s inquiry concerns the emergence of synthetic diamonds and how these lab-grown alternatives are affecting the market — a market that was human-made to begin with, somewhere between tulip bulbs and NFTs in the loony history of mass delusions. We’re talking about “carbon copies,” in the most literal sense, and how there’s now almost no limit on the quantity that can be produced.

At a molecular level, there’s practically no meaningful difference between natural and synthetic stones, insists the film’s Cassandra-like protagonist, a pitiful Serbian gemologist named Dusan Simic. He once specialized in distinguishing between the two, but his services became obsolete once De Beers released a machine that could do the same. Simic claims the device isn’t very effective at actually catching synthetics. By not identifying impostors, the machine was designed to assure the market that there is no problem of mixing, Simic suggests, whereas he estimates that somewhere in the order of 5% of the diamonds being sold as natural are in fact artificial (which is not the same thing as “fake,” mind you).

Does it matter? To the industry it does. After all, prices are essentially invented, and the so-called value of a diamond exists largely in the head of the person who receives it. Kohn opens the film by sampling vintage VHS marketing videos — the kind in which sophisticated Elizabeth Taylor-looking women pronounce the word “dah-monds” and men are told that a worthy engagement ring should cost three months’ salary. Early on, diamond pricing authority Martin Rapaport reiterates the idea that keeps this inherently silly industry in operation: A woman subconsciously projects the value of whatever rock she’s given onto herself. Color me skeptical, though I understand how status symbols work and recognize that we’ve been conditioned to judge others by the size of the stones on their fingers.

Much later in the film, Kohn includes a clip of Rapaport presenting at a Las Vegas trade show, where he speaks the line that sums up the big-picture diamond drama: “If we lose the engagement ring market, we’re all out of business.” Keno! Fittingly enough, the market — rather than the underlying resource — serves as the focus of Kohn’s multifaceted film, the raw stone he slices and examines from so many intriguing angles.

Like Rapaport, many of the experts Kohn interviews took some serious convincing to participate. His big get is De Beers CEO Stephen Lussier, who married into the Oppenheimer family but still recalls his humble origins, shoveling snow from childhood neighbor Tracy Hall’s driveway (Hall was a pioneer in the field of synthetic diamonds for General Electric). An affable enough fellow, Lussier toes the party line on what he aptly calls “the diamond dream.” But you don’t need a gemologist’s loupe to spot the flaws in his logic. Apart from the endlessly quotable Raden, practically all the talking heads are self-serving — as when synthetic-producing physicist John Janik admits he stands to “make money by destroying the gem industry.”

On the surface, “Nothing Lasts Forever” is a solid, investigative documentary, shot and scored like a tight art-house thriller: Kohn travels to Orapa, Botswana, where shots of a huge open-pit mine echo the beginning of the Safdie brothers’ “Uncut Gems” (the rest of the film is every bit as tense and potentially mind-blowing as that movie). He takes us inside the Indian “diamond city” of Surat, where he interviews a “mixer” exploiting the fact that once the stones are cut and polished, they cannot be differentiated. He even follows Simic to several Chinese factories where synthetics are manufactured.

Over the course of his research, Kohn effectively cracks the case of where the synthetic gems have been coming from, since diamonds that were once being manufactured strictly for industrial purposes started leaking into jewelers’ hands. (De Beers responded by introducing its Lightbox line — which Raden amusingly refers to as “a lie about a lie.”) Reduced to working as a ride-share driver at one point, Simic develops a synthetic-labeling process he tries to sell to the industry. But his idea never would have worked, since it relies on the honor system — not unlike the GIA certification racket. By the end, Simic has adopted an “if you can’t beat ’em, join ’em” approach, manufacturing his own synthetics with nitrogen bonds that are even closer to those of natural diamonds.

That’s all rich. But it’s delving into the film’s myriad economic and philosophical dimensions that proves most rewarding. What do diamonds represent to us? Where did our romantic associations with them originate? Why do jewelers insist on downplaying the ethical advantages of synthetics? And how does overpaying for an engagement ring affect the prices of the diamonds used in optics, medicine and electronics? Kohn has created the rare documentary that transforms the way we understand the world, questioning so many of our core beliefs, including the very notion of what is “real.” Through it all, diamonds won’t lose one iota of their sparkle, but you’ll never look at them the same way again.



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zphlx 发表于 2022-10-10 01:04:41

非常不错,感谢楼主整理。。

antgirl 发表于 2022-12-4 07:47:05

太好了,终于找到宝藏论坛了!

lxy12315 发表于 2023-1-30 17:51:09

谢谢楼主分享,发现宝藏了。

cashmore 发表于 2023-4-8 13:58:42

感谢论坛提供了这么多好资源啊

roben 发表于 2023-7-6 07:16:49

谢谢楼主分享,发现宝藏了。

Gina 发表于 2023-12-5 10:33:26

非常不错,感谢楼主整理。。

fengyj 发表于 2024-3-22 05:54:02

非常不错,感谢楼主整理。。
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